Home at Last

We are on board the 0530 Dieppe – Newhaven ferry in good time, when we arrived at the port despite the hour we found lots of dogs having their last minute walkies, it took me by surprise that dawn had broken, it was light. The crossing was as smooth and flat as I have ever known. I thought of the dogs but didn't really worry, they both seem to regard the van as their home, comfortable bed and room to move around, no close confinement, seemed relaxed, a couple of times on the journey I had to scoop him up and put him in the van, I could see the potential for him to freak out, but having Lilly as a travelling companion certainly was a bonus she was so very nicely behaved..

In what seems no time I can see the coastline around Newhaven and we are being called to return to our vehicles, with some trepidation I go back to the van, we are nearly at the front near the exit doors, Sid is on the drivers seat smiling at one of the deckhands who asks if he can stroke Sid, he does, Sid is so calm I can barely believe it.

                               

                            Second off the boat, last to leave the port.

UK  border agency  were there to greet me, a fine body of  men and women who’s organisations stated objectives is  to protect the UK’s border and national interests seemed to have identified me and Sid as the threat of the day.

 I was directed to one side and subject to a most peculiar and ineffectual cross examination, whilst this was taking place all of my fellow passengers were cheerfully waved through port security, not one of them stopped, not the obvious smugglers, or the illegal immigrants, even the mass murderers were not troubled to provide an alibi.

And here is the crowning insult, having spent a good deal of the previous evening learning about the British and Canadian young men who gave their lives about this time of year 60 years ago just across the channel where I had just come from, It was me and not the dodgy looking German blokes who sported the dubious logo ‘professional fighting team’ on their clothing, it was me who was stopped.

 I was only on the boat for four hours I know, but that was long enough for me to spot the fact that at least half the passengers were on the run, I was in the minority when it came to speaking the Queens English

 I know enough about the system and the potential to make situations like that which I was in, much worse, I am sure that one of the cretins training videos pointed out the potential of a single man making a quick trip to Spain, nipping over to Morocco to load up with hashish, of course master criminals always operate in this way, perhaps I should be flattered. But I'm not, I'm livid, incensed, outraged indignant, I haven't been this cross since I lost my favourite pencil, I feel the tourettes returning.

 I keep my councel; I really am not in the mood for a full body search.

Thanks everyone I feel a bit better now.

First bit of green lay-by and we stop,  Sid and Lilly have been fantastic and deserve a long walk, they are a bit put off by the long green grass, should think they have never seen anything like it before, they are home now and safe, they are relaxed and interested.

We are on our way to meet Lilly’s fosterer who have two dogs,  Schihtzu’s called Lilly and Phoebe, so I’m not sure what our Lilly will be called when they are all together, as she takes no notice of anything I say I guess it won’t really matter.

 The meeting will be at mother in law, Margaret’s place near Southampton, I tell the boys all about it and we wonder if there may be a bit of chicken left.  Margaret has a little Daschund who’s name is Lucy, she is not used to other dogs and we must all be on our best behaviour as we are staying the night.

 The arrival and introductions at Margaret’s go well, we are tired so after another good walk we have an early night, both dogs on a rug besides my bed, again they are so very good.

 Next day after a thorough inspection of the lampposts in the road and breakfast we all go to Waitrose in Margaret’s car, Sid and Lilly lay down on the back seat quietly, strange car, strange place and they lay down quietly!

 Shopping is a fairly slow business with Margaret, offers need to be scrutinised, staff need to be interrogated as to the freshness and suitability of the items on offer, it occurs to me that someone like Margaret, who worked at Bletchley Park and who finishes the Telegraph crossword each morning in between her two breakfasts would have done a much better job cross examining me at the port, I’m sure I would have confessed to something had she been in charge,.

 From time to time I looked out on the car and my two little charges slept peacefully.

 We were all bought treats and went back to unload the shopping and await Lilly II;s new dad, Gordon.

 Gordon and Lilly 2 hit it off immediately, her foster mum Gill and sisters are at home on the Isle of Wight waiting. 

 It’s evening now, my favored time to travel, Sid and I have a long journey home to Lincolnshire.

We say goodbye to Lilly and Gordon, I thank Margaret for her kindness once again and we are on our way.

The journey is easy, we are old pro’s now, Sid manages to sleep balanced on the passenger seat for the whole trip, apart from refuelling in Lincoln we don’t stop.

It’s very late when we arrive but everyone is up Fred and Domino our two standard poodles are very pleased to see us, Sid takes it all in his stride, has a smile and a wag at Sandy and Ted, who has come over to greet us, and then all in to the garden for lots of excited sniffing and cocking of the leg.

 What an adventure we have had, I’m just so very glad to be able to report that Sid and Lilly were so worth it.

 Half an hour in his foster home Sid sleeps on Ted’s knee, as if in gratitude for the wonderful gesture of the loan of the van, A very wonderful gift, thank you Ted.

A special thank you to Sandy my other half who prepared and kitted me out for the journey, kept me on the right road and checked via regular text messages that my flies were done up.

 Although I didn’t  have much internet en route, I learnt from Sandy’s text messages of the terrific support and encouragement I was getting in response to the updates I was sending, thank you all so very very much,  especially for ignoring my total disregard for spelling, punctuation and grammar.

 On behalf of the lovely Lilly and Sid, the sweetest little dogs, thank you Diana and Hillary and all the kind people who support Terrier SOS.

                      The End Of the Trip but the start of Sid's                                                    new Life .

Mad dash through France

The river valley which leads me down and away from the Pyrenees winds on, another hour and I am still surrounded by steep hillside, another stop is in order to give poor old Lilly a clean up, when I find a suitable spot close to the river edge we pull over.

 Leads on the two dogs come with me to the river edge and we give the manky blanket a wash and throw over a wall to dry, I look up at the rocky outcrops which break out of the green hillsides, is that an eagle, two of them no ten wrong there's at least 50, they seem massive soaring and gliding effortlessly, wheeling around the tops of the hills where I guess currents of warm air rise and keep the birds airborne. They can't be eagles, some sort of vulture maybe, there are so many and they look so big, just in case they are vultures I advise Sid and Lilly not to lay still, must ask Mr Google, he is going to be busy when I get home.

We wander further down stream, now I can see a lot of the birds perching on the higher rocks, for once I have my camera with me, they are a long way up but I think I get a few decent pictures. I am there for ages, fascinated, I have never seen so many big birds in one place since I was taken for a night out in Derby

Back to the van and joy, the road is closed, another French happening, a cycle race is due through, oh well cup of tea and wait.

All during my journey with Sid and Lilly I have been waiting to make the decision as to which channel crossing I might take, the factor which affects my choice is Sid's reaction to being left alone in the van, he travels without any problem, he can move about, he can see me and he has Lilly for company. He clearly does not want to be shut in, he moves like lightening if he senses a door being closed, I need to know how distressed he becomes when left. I need to test him before I decide, tomorrow I will leave them both in the van and hide somewhere within sight and see what happens.

For now I have another decision, we have emerged from the foothills of the mountains and we are in the southern Landes heading for Bordeaux where we cross the huge Garonne river. I have been to the area before, the coastal region is great holiday country if you like the sun and water, huge freshwater lakes bounded by sandy beaches, the sea just beyond, huge rollers coming in from the scary bay of Biscay, I also know the pine forested flat landscape covers a huge area, I will pay the toll to get some distance covered quickly, it's a good decision, by the time we need to find a campsite for the night we have reached Angouleme.

Sandy sends me the address of a camp site by text, we have to drive through the city, once again the ancient buildings, seemingly huge and definitely mysterious beckon closer inspection, but I am tired and need a shower, Sid told me.

The camp site is excellent, whilst I shower Sid and Lilly are tied to the van they cause no problem, we eat then walk then sleep,

I discover by a text from Sandy who has been told by one of Terriers SOS supporters that Angouleme hosts a comic strip festival and this years stars are Tin Tin and Snowy who is of course

Sid's cousin. I do so wish I had time to investigate. But it's onward we must go.

When we get to the outskirts of Poitiers it's lunchtime, we find a huge Auchan supermarket and after a walk I leave Sid and Lilly to go in search of some grub, for the first 10 minutes after leaving them I skulk behind a trolley parking shed, Sid can't see me and Lilly doesn't even try, I can see two sticky up ears, he is on the drivers seat looking round, the ears disappear, just in case he is tunneling out I creep up to the van and peer in, he's fast asleep on the seat. When I come back half an hour later, he's still asleep, looking good.

As we move off from the supermarket I lose my bearings as to where the actual car park and the road part company, I find myself going up the wrong side of a slip road, a car comes towards me, screeches to a halt and the driver clearly incensed jumps out of the car and strides menacingly towards me, there is a lot of excited gabbling and animated gesticulating, I feel sure that blows are going to be delivered, whilst I rack my brains for french words for dislodge and pacemaker, she jumps back in her car and drives off, phew. A bit of nonchalant reversing and I'm away.

Again when I pass the cathedral I rue the fact that I have not allowed a month for the trip.

After Sid's reaction to being left I decide to go Dieppe – Newhaven, the crossing is just 4 hours and departure is 05.30 a time when normally we would all be asleep, I set the navigator.

Coming in to northern France now and although it is still warm there are clouds gathering and I can hear distant thunder. We make steady progress and make the nights stopping place Chatrers, my texting assistant again sorts us a campsite. As we arrive the heavens open it's not yet 6 pm it gets dark, the thunder and lightening are scary, but my two intrepid travelling companions seem not to notice. After half an hour all is quiet, the rain stops we have our dinner then head for the town and the old quarter, it's magical, I can't go in anywhere because of the dogs but I don't mind because I am coming back.

The cathedrals of the cities of northern France fascinate me, their history, their survival through so many conflicts, a quick flick round is not the way to visit them, you need to stay around them and in them for hours and it helps to know about them before you go.

We have a good night, it rains a lot but we don't mind,. The final leg of our French journey is quite short, good job, it turns out to be the busiest ,slowest so far. When we arrive in Dieppe I am surprised how busy the town is, my previous visits have been out of season and we have been able to park on the seafront wherever we liked, this time on a sunny summers evening there was much competition for parking. We find a place where normally coaches stop and take a stroll along the prom, it is very nice, the beach is a bit odd, big stones, but dogs are not allowed anyway.

Sid I have learnt needs a paved surface and an audience in order to perform his daily doings, everyone knows I am English because when I take anything from my pockets little black bags shower out.

Tonight's audience turns out to be a large group of Canadians over for a commemoration of Operation Liberty a trial raid on a French port carried out two years before D Day by a mostly Canadian assault force. They are all very friendly but assure me that Sid is not a Fox Terrier, should I take him back??

The Pyrenee's

We're off again, it's about 5 pm, the road approaching the mountains is smooth and wide at this point, the climb is gentle, I could enjoy the approaching wall of rock which seemed to form the base of the mountains, all the time I am looking to see if I could work out the route the road might take,

 we are close now, the road turns right to run parallel to the hills, suddenly we are on a viaduct going hard left in to an opening in the cliffs.

We start to climb, we are still on the elevated viaduct the walls of the gorge we are in tower above, every now and then I get a glimpse of the mountains proper, wow I wish I had Baldricks gift for description, perhaps big rocky things with snow on top. We are now back on the land and I get the impression we have hardly climbed at all, the road is 3 lane, two ups one of them being a crawler, good job, I am getting slower and slower, there is a lot of traffic going up and when the road reverts to two lane I can see in my rear view mirror quite a queue of traffic building behind me, the temperature gauge is going up, I'm worried now.

 I need to stop and through a little tunnel round yet another zig zag, fortune smiles on me yet again, a massive reservoir with a few houses grouped by the roadside, there is room to stop off the road.

 Despite the no stopping sign, when I step out of the van I immediately see the problem, the road is seriously steep, the temperature is extremely high, Whilst driving in the mountains I had no idea as to the gradients of the roads we were on, sometimes I couldn't tell if I was going up or down or on the level, I've noticed this before in other hilly areas, very strange, at least I know that it's the terrain and not a fault with the engine, I put my little triangle behind the van and pop the bonnet up, plan is to let the van and the air cool down, I figure there will be much less traffic in a couple of hours.

 in the meantime we will take a walk around the lake, what could be nicer. There are pine trees and shrubs on the slopes around the lake, I can hear cicadas and the hills have that smell you get in dry hot hilly places, is it sage or oregano mixed in with the smell of the pines, something like that, anyway it's really nice. The walk is good, the path is metaled and not too steep, the lake had a strange bluey, milky appearance, two of the three of us did what was necessary.

 Back to the van for dinner and a drink, I’m not really feeding Lilly much she really is suffering with the travelling, Sid seems totally at ease with the situation and sleeps at the drop of a hat. Outside it is still so warm and the traffic has not decreased, a look at the map shows we are in a small village called Canfranc, this village gives it's name to the pass through the mountains, we are on the E7 still well in to Spain, the E7 runs alongside the Rio Aragon, Aragon is the name of the area we are in.

When I passed through the last big Spanish town, Jaca, I was sure that there would be road signs heralding the closeness of the Spanish French border, but all I saw was a minuscule road side marker with Francia on it, well Francia here we come. 

It's now 1 am we have had a snooze and it's a little cooler, traffic has eased though when cars do come round the corner on the uphill carriageway they are still going at a fair old lick. We are all strapped in, I watch for headlights on the valley wall, there are none ,go, go, go.

 As with so many life situations, I needn't have worried, the van took off at a very respectable lick and no more than 500 meters round the next series of bends we enter a tunnel, another serious tunnel, I never knew about this tunnel either, why on earth hadn't my mother told me about it? What’s the big secret?

The entrance was festooned with what looked like warning signs in Spanish, no reference to France whatsoever, normally in these situations I would follow someone, but it's the wee small hours and I am alone, so onward, the tunnel goes on and on, its fairly level and deathly quiet, there are escape hatches but goodness knows where they go, then a weird thing I get a text message, I read the message, no one to see me down here, it might be Sandy saying goodbye, it says welcome to France, how did they know I was down here? The message turned out to be unnecessary, when we eventually came out of the 8km long tunnel I knew instantly we were in France, the road had deteriorated in to a rutted almost single track lane, there were four roadside houses two of which were for sale and deep joy an inviting parking area, we stopped and slept, relieved and happy.

 In the morning we found ourselves in the clouds, everything here is green and as the young people say nowadays, lush. We are parked behind a big UK camper bearing the legend, Yellowbelly and proud of it, I'm from Lincolnshire and understand the first bit.

I'm pleased to see the peaks still gathered all around us, the clouds promise to burn off, the sun is already warm when it peeps through the gaps, we have some breakfast and Lilly is included, there is a stream and a path so another walk looks a good option whilst we wait for the clouds to clear away. Half an hour later the sky is blue, it has been well worth the wait, more craggy peaks towering above and all around, it's spectacular, again I don't have the words, I must come back one day, take loads of photos.

Getting ready for the off, have managed to avoid the proud one in front, his window sticker showed dubious judgement, not because of it's sentiment but just because it was on display. Two big coaches and several cars sweep in to the car park and spill dozens of senior citizens, they are all togged up for walking, shorts, little haversack, walking poles, it's 9.30 in the morning, not for them the eternal worry of when and where to go, where there’s a boulder there’s a way, again I am ashamed of myself, and do you know what? They were all sipping water, pogo pogo!

Off on my gentle downward trek, the scenery is still there, the valley cut is dramatic, difficult to estimate but the valley walls must be 90 meters plus and behind these close sides the mountains proper, mostly barren rocky surfaces the bigger more distant ones with snow, The road follows the course of a river, the Gave d'aspe, this tumbles and rushes alongside me.

 We pass through several hamlets, I must stop and look soon, sooner than I think, we must be 5 or 6 miles in to France and the French customs leap from behind a building and I am stopped, the two who come to interrogate me are a well mannered young man and lady, they are all called Duane, strange. The questions are all quite reasonable and delivered in very good English do I have drugs? Do I have weapons? Where have I been? Where am I going?

I think all is going well, we have avoided the complication question of the dogs, then a big ugly chap comes over and asks to look inside, we all make our way round the back of the van and Sid is grinning at us, I just know he is going to make a lunge at us, I open the door a crack and grab the two dogs, we open the back doors,Lilly bless her has deposited her breakfast all across the blanket, I've never been so pleased to see dog sick, I look at the young lady, she wretches and changes colour, in that instant I know, she knows I know, the big ugly chap knows, in 7 months or so she will not be worrying about decrepit old English dog runners.

I am waved on, they have things to discuss, the young man is oblivious and I resist the urge to suggest if it's a boy they might consider calling him Sid.

Arrived at Sid's pad 

I arrive, I'm near Sid’s place, I'm almost a day early, it's Thursday afternoon and I am expected Friday ,my new plan was to find a shady spot and while away the hours reading and generally laying about, looking at the map the town which is Yaizas postal address looks ideal, small, with river marked as running through the center, must be somewhere pleasant thereabouts surely.

As I get near I start to see my optimism was mis placed, it's 34 degrees the landscape is scorched and dusty, there is a river bed but it  looks like it has been dried up for years.
Walking around hoping for inspiration as to where to spend the night people greet me, there is much smiling, the whole town seems to be wandering around, taking advantage of the cooler air. A young man and his girlfriend spoke to me in English, they have seen the van and know where I am from. I take the opportunity to ask about camping sites, they laugh, the area is not conducive to camping, there are none. I showed them Yaiza’s address and they were able to point me in the right direction.

The whole atmosphere is so pleasant, and the people so nice. I reckon now I can park up anywhere quiet and spend the night. To pass the time I thought I would seek out Sid's place, if I know where it is I will be well placed for the meeting tomorrow.

Surprisingly I happen on the area pointed out to me by the young couple almost as soon as I leave the main road, just need to look for names and I'm sorted. No need it turns out, a fenced off plot has on it a prefabricated type house and I can see a number of dogs, when I slow down to look pandemonium erupts, a woofing and a barking, I have to stop because in the middle of the pack I can see some ears, not just any old ears, Sid’s ears. Yaiza comes out with the baby, I'm rumbled, it's 10 pm now and I apologise for disturbing the family and say I will come back in the morning, obviously not in a sufficiently forceful manner for 20 minutes later I find myself parked up for the night in the compound. Before we could open the gates the dogs are put away, I notice the grounds are separated, two exercise areas, a training area and kennels, plus of course the dwelling.

Yaiza is charming she offers food ,  I say I would just like to meet Sid and Lily for 5 minutes before I get some sleep. All the dogs are let out again, it is usual for them to be out until it gets dark, it's a bit cooler but still 28 deg. The dogs all greet me with varying interest, lots of barking and two of the three Malinois bring me the remains of some tennis balls.
Sid is hanging back and Lilly is nowhere to be seen, the whole pack is friendly, there are I think 15 dogs including two pugs three  Malinois, a beagle, Lilly and Sid, another little schnauzer like terrier, a Chihuahua the pair of teckle crosses, a greyhound and a most splendid Airedale. Throwing the bits of ball I am soon covered in dust and slobber, lovely.

Sid is not frightened just not bothered about the ball , when I call him he comes and we have a big kiss and I find his scratchy place, Lilly comes haring round the corner, generally bossing the other dogs about, she seems fearless, she too comes when I call her, immediately rolling over for a tummy tickle, our introductions couldn't have been nicer, we will get on well we all smell the same!


 Friday the day I should have arrived, I'm a bit late getting up, I thought the dogs would act as an alarm, outside I can only see the Malinois laying on the covered porch hoping for an invite indoors, surely I think, the other dogs aren't still locked up in the kennels, they are not, it is just so hot even at 09.30am the shade of the kennels is the preferred place to be. I am invited in for breakfast which turns out to be home made chocolate cookie type things and freshly squeezed oranges, very nice, next a shower, is there a message here? Today is the day for Sid and Lilly to be wormed. The appointment is after lunch so outside to play more broken ball, the  Malinois are keen for a game and the beagle needs to get in first. Yaiza has to help me find Sid and Lilly, they are laying in the shade, no wonder it's 11.30 and the temperature is 34 deg. Sid has a bit of a hoppity skip around, you can see how he is carrying one of his hind legs, the whole pack looks relaxed and contented and as I find out later the extended family love the dogs too and there are plenty of playing and cuddles .

When Yaiza and the baby come out to sit in the shade, Sid is first to get to them, he wants a cuddle, I can see straight away he is a kind sweet dog, 

 I leave them to it and look for the Airedale, he is so handsome and very nicely mannered  it is good he is booked in for a clip and groom he is panting and clearly is struggling with the heat, southern Spain is no place for a hairy dog. His mate the greyhound is a bit aloof and is not keen to say hello or is it hola? I will try him again later.

Lunchtime comes and I am presented with a large dish of what looks and tastes like bolognaise sauce, strangely this is topped off with three fried eggs, just the sort of thing I might have chosen to have when getting my own dinners, I like it.
Vets next I am thinking, but no everyone goes to bed, I am offered the couch and off they go. To pass the time I watch some children’s TV, it has been left on, the program I am watching graphically illustrates another vast difference in the attitudes of our respective countries. The plot seems to be that a man and a lady, dressed in safari outfits, are in the savannah (is that right the grassy bit in the middle of Africa)) they are trying to catch a particular lion, I know this because the nice lady speaks directly to camera and shows us pictures, the chap is odd I can't make out what he is up to, he is wearing a bush hat with a video camera attached to it, can't work out why, anyway they decide to make a big net type trap, they need some bait, fortuitously the lady finds a partly dismembered wildebeest type animal, she does no more than whip out a machete and cuts off one of the unfortunate wildebeests legs, this takes some time and is graphically photographed, I have to look away, give me good old Mr Muggle any time.  
Wake up time, before we go we need to take a shower, not together I hasten to add, shower is nice but by the time I get my socks and sandals back on I am dripping with sweat again.

Jose, Yaiza’s husband is doing the vet run, he is in the car revving up, I have to jump in quick, we are away,  calling in on Jose's friends on the way  and again the people are smiling and friendly. 
It's a long way to Cartagena  and the vet and  I am glad of the air conditioning in the car, 30 mins later dogs all done and back to the Finca, vets were very helpful.
Jose takes me on a little sightseeing trip around the port of Cartagenait is very swish,  the army and navy have bases there. Jose tells me of the economic difficulties in the area,  some of the problems brought about by agriculture suffering from lack of water, there have only been three days of rain so far this year.  He teaches me new words, the phrase which amuses him most is pogo pogo wish I knew what it meant,  Mr Google says pogophobia is fear of beards, can anyone help, Jose is a star, I like him.
Nearly time for the boys t,o start their big adventure,  from what I've seen so far I, m sure it will be alright in the end

Arriving at Gijon and onwards

Still on the boat, reading a bit, thinking a bit, I have remembered reading Lawrie Lees account of his walking across much of southern Spain at the time of the civil war, taken by some romantic notion he could help, no language, alone, on foot, amazing he needed no pills.

Only three hours to go now, I can while this away easily, I shall be preoccupied with the timing of my toilet run, too soon and I will need to go again, too late, well it might be too late. Robert Morely said that at a certain time of life one inevitably becomes obsessed with thinking about when you might go and this of course begs the question of where. This leads me on to thinking about the modern thing of carrying drinks around with you, sipping water all the time, I've been doing it but only because I’ve been told to. When I was a boy, in the summer, we went out to play at 8 oclock spent all day traipsing around the countryside doing the things we shouldn't no doubt, home at tea time, slice of bread and dripping and if we were lucky a glass of corona, never a thought of sipping water. Those were the days, as someone who was sent to school in shorts and wellies to the age of 14 I would say that wouldn’t I.

The forthcoming journey pops in to my head, the final destination is a bit vague, my shipmates have regaled me with tales of exorbitant toll roads, massive traffic jams around Madrid, rockfalls, bandits, think I will try to concentrate on the toilet business.

Before I go I think I should admit I have been to Madrid before, that was by plane and accidentally. When the booking of flights first became possible on the internet I thought it a splendid way to save money and booked flights to Malaga, price looked good I could see no problem so I pressed the buy button oooops I hadn't spotted the direct flights only checkbox, you guessed it, we had to change twice, Paris and Madrid, it took us a day and a half..

Landed 

Voyage turned out to be OK just very long, my port of disembarkation is Gijon in northern Spain, it is a blot on a very pretty landscape, smoothly rolling hills remind me of Hobbiton or rural Dorset, behind them I can see a range of mist clad more serious hills, I'm sure we will go round these.

On the road I soon pass out of the concrete slab high rises in to familiar pastureland complete with friesian cows, the round hills are almost alpine with pretty houses clinging to the slopes which are at ridiculous angles, looking ahead, the bigger hills are looking like mountains now with heavy clouds sitting on the top, or could it be the smoke from the fires of Mordor? How on earth can the road go through these mountains? , but it does as I zig zag upwards the cloud comes down to meet me, it is misty and it rains. The altitude is marked every vertical 100 meters, the last one isaw was 1300, the mist was literally hand in front of your face thick and it's dark now, speaking as someone who lives in Lincolnshire it's a shock to remember how steep some of the world can be, must be careful not to get a nosebleed.

The van sails on coping with the road with ease. I was mighty glad when the descent came, the mist and rain cleared. Of course I couldn't resist stopping a couple of times to peer in to the valleys and chasms, spectacular.

Stopped for some sleep 6 degrees and just stopped raining, woken up to 28 degrees and bright sunshine, yippe I'm in Spain, think I will take my vest off.

The southern side of the mountains is dry and parched, barren,no more trees. Some of the rocky outcrops are weirdly shaped almost statuesque, goudi like, I want to stop and look at everything but must keep moving.

 Coming south towards Madrid the temperature continues to rise, the fields of corn or whatever they may be are being harvested, the combine harvesters are busy.

I am at the outskirts of Madrid very early, first light hoping to miss the dreaded traffic, I missed it and I got lucky. My helpful acquaintances from the boat omitted to tell me about the tunnel, the throughfare for the city, at least the bit I was on runs under the city, no humble little underpass this, my route took me 7 miles underground, past countless exits and joining roads, the exits were marked with the final town on the road and I had no idea which exit to choose, mrs sat nav of course didn't work down there nowhere to stop, I had to guess and the guess was lucky, Valencia, I didn't want to go there or even pass there but it was in the right direction, hallelujah. The sad bit it that I didn't get to see Madrid again, what a contrary thing life can be, no intention of going there and I did, looking forward to going there again and foiled.

Feeling peckish I decided on the pretext of wanting wi fi to seek out a MacDonald’s, I saw several big M's in the sky but somehow could never work out how to get to them, I reckon you see them from a distance OK but when you approach them they disappear, like anomaly's. I did find a huge supermarket site which boasted a Burger King and fuel plus the supermarket had free wi fi, I give it a go, first I need some cash so I set off to find an ATM (I know all of these whizzy acronyms, not)

Passing Burger King I notice it is closed, In the arcade bit there is a security lady with a big truncheon, I summoned all my courage and asked about the ATM, she gave me directions in good English so feeling bolder I asked about burger king opening times, she told me it was closed because it was not time to eat (2.30pm) I thought she was going to advise me to sip a little water, anyway whilst still mulling this over I spent 5 minutes trying to get cash from a fire hydrant, well the coiled hose did look like a corporate banking symbol, when I found the actual machine it was out of order, to to this all off the free wi fi was only available if you had a Spanish address Doh!

Another day

The only town of note between Gijon and Madrid was and here’s a bit of cryptic for you, The bands also has royalty in the name, The film is a bit macho (but I liked it) the car is little and quick, (I like that too) The answer of course is Leon. Speaking of kings, which we nearly were, as Spain is between kings so to speak I decided to tidy myself up, today’s jeans have no holes and I have brushed my hair, you never know when the call might come.

Not far from Sids place now, have stopped for a breather, most of the road has been motorway, those of you who know me won't be surprised to know that I instructed mrs sat nav to avoid tolls, this has meant using some single carriageway roads, I travel at an economical 56 mph, lorries seem to want to travel at 58mph and the average Spanish oik seems to have the need for speed, upshot is that I have been in everybody’s way today, which I am almost sorry about, up side is that I have made a lot of new friends, not sure what it is they want to express when they gaily gesture, but I always wave back in the most friendly of ways.

Saving Sidney

Preparation and the voyage

Not the most auspicious of starts, went to Thomas cook to collect my pre-ordered euros and their computer refuses to acknowledge me it says “no “when this was finally sorted by rifling through the managers, who wasn't there, life in service desk to find an admin password.

 I went on to the chemist in search of sea sickness tablets, not available ,manufacturing problems, 3 chemist later I come away with a hay fever remedy and a promise that they  will do the same job.

 Simple task next, Asda for last minute goodies, I fill my little basket and I’m heading for the check out when  the fire alarm goes off ,all the customers are sent out into the car park and here's the dilemma,  I have with me my goodies not paid for,  I know that if I don’t pay for them something awful will happen on my trip,  I compromise by eating the mars bar while I wait.

 Last challenge of the day is to avoid eating my mother in laws chicken surprise, she is 90 and a remarkable lady ,I am staying with her the night before the ferry, there are  two issues regarding the meal, despite knowing me for 50 years  she has ignored the fact that I have never eaten chicken in my life and 2  should I be  inclined to partake out of deference to her efforts I will surely die, My in Law  shops online with Waitrose, she has realised that any complaint regarding quality elicits a very favorable response,  chicken 1 was slightly over cooked,  refund and replacement sent out, now being of a generation that wastes nothing she ate said no 1 burnt chicken and is now part way through the replacement,  at least 3 weeks old,  I will tell her I have a dicky tummy, well I would've done wouldn't I?

On our way 

You wouldn't believe how my heart sank when I first laid my eyes on the scruffy little boat that was going to carry me across the bay of Biscay, 26 hours it is to take, surely this little thing will never withstand the mountainous seas we are promised, I know its going to bob up and down, and pitch and roll, and I am going to turn green.

We get underway,  the staff or is it crew, are Spanish and charming,  the atmosphere is jolly,  many calls on the tannoy to take dinner in the self service restaurant,  I'm not tempted,  I’m starving but I know what will happen,  not that I’ve given it much thought of course.

People are friendly and chatty but I feel the need to concentrate on my frailties,  I find the best way to discourage lengthy conversation is to tell people what I am up to,  they back off no doubt wondering where my carer has got to. One chap who persevered with his interrogation of my plan was most concerned that I would not have enough vigour, oh no something else I’ve not thought of.

Well in to the voyage I decide to take my travel pills,  even though I’ve not sneezed once,  you can never be too careful,  given that I am inclined toward feeling seasick, ( if Rod Stuart comes on the radio singing I am sailing, I have to sit down as it always makes me feel nauseous) hence I take every precaution.

Feeing quite well at the moment, a little light headed maybe, determined not to spend anything at the bar I sip my peach water and wonder if Sandy has packed any woodbines for the voyage.

Sleeping or  trying to, in a reclining seat is probably not the best of ideas but given that a cabin would nearly have doubled the cost of the ticket and I’m not being a martyr here  because I was convinced I would be stood on deck all night with my little brown bag and checking the condition of the lifeboats,  however I slept,  it may have been the pills,  it may have been the surreal nature of what I was doing but I had a really strange dream in which my recently departed sister was doing lifebelt drill to the assembled passengers,  she did a great job putting  a lot of enthusiasm in to the demonstration, she got an excellent round of applause at the end, now I have to wonder if this was some sort of sign or personal message, anyway I took good notice and feel confident that should the need arise I can manage, I even remember where the little whistle is. Mad as a bat my sis was, but we all loved her.

The ship rolls a bit but I feel OK. Not many hardy souls in the recliners but in the morning the few of us there have bonded, like survivors of some great adversity, we are all brothers. I am reminded of the words of my brother in law, “Wise Wally” It will all be alright in the end, if it's not alright it can't be the end'

The tannoy is harping on about breakfast now,  I’m super starving but still not brave enough, when I was in chemist number 2 the assistant told me I should nibble ginger biscuits,  they would settle my stomach,  hurrah I have some, so have a  nibble,  seems odd not to be sharing them with two poodles.

Two weeks in to my 26 hour crossing I stagger outside, we really are rolling, the sky is blue and the sea is grey, I can see nothing, no land, no ships, the spray soaks me.  I have a “where am I “app on my tablet thingy, it says “don’t know”, I’ve never been this far out to sea and we are not in the bay of Biscay proper yet, I have to go and sit down, it makes you think how mariners of old found the courage to go off on long voyages,  could be that Mrs ancient mariner said something like, “shall we foster a fox terrier dear”?  And he said, “can’t just now, have to go on a long and dangerous voyage”, must stop thinking about the sea.

I know, I will write out a few key questions/statements in English and Spanish then when in Spain I can point to the relevant translation should I need to, problem is I’m not very inspired, I write down “where is the toilet please” and then “I have lost my little dog, he is a fox terrier with a limp and sticky up ears”.  I give up, partly because my experience from living in France taught me that it is one thing to ask a question, quite another to understand the answer